One of the great individuals with a strong commitment to protect Balinese art from extinction is Nyoman Mandra from Klungkung. In his home in Kamasan Village (which is an unknown tourist site in Klungkung), he set up a sanggar (studio and workshop) for anyone (even tourists) to learn the classic Kamasan style painting. Mandra’s strong commitment to the style of his ancestors is found not only in his own pure examples of the Kamasan style, but in his fostering of younger artists. His students have gone on to win prizes in Bali-wide festivals, and to have students of their own. The sanggar is also the centre of other arts, including a thriving gamelan. Mandra’s works and those of his students’ have been recognized by important cultural critics and modern artists have gone to him to study the roots of Balinese art.

The village of Kamasan in Klungkung (the oldest kingdom in Bali), has an ancient tradition of painting. With its roots leading back to the great Javanese empire of Majapahit, it is far from the usual tourist tracks; and so many visitors to Bali get the false impression that Ubud is the centre of art. The art of Kamasan is the classic style based on the shadow theatre or wayang. Kamasan Village once included many wayang puppeteers, although few remain. For many centuries that tradition was practiced by the Sangging descent group, who gave their name to the section of the village of Kamasan, where present-day artists are still found. Early in the nineteenth century the Sangging descent group died out in Kamasan through lack of male heirs, but they passed on their tradition to others in the village through the most famous artists of that era, Modara.

Despite the many developments in Balinese painting during the twentieth century, the classic art of Kamasan is continued. It is one of Modara’s descendants (Nyoman Mandra himself) who has done the most to keep Kamasan’s art true to their style of the ancestors. Mandra was a student of one of leading artists of the previous generation, his uncle I Nyoman Dogol. From him he also learnt to observe the many great examples of Kamasan painting found in temples in the village.

Another area in Bali that is also encouraging its younger generation to learn the Balinese art since early age, is the village of Ngis in Tabanan. Here, the old generation would gather their younger ones and teach them how to paint. The place could take in any of the residents’ house. Visitors to this village are more than welcome to join the painting class, or just simply watch the children following their lesson.

A higher-leveled institution offering its students arts classes is SMKI (high school level) in Batubulan near Sukawati. Founded by I Wayan Balik Riti, this institution is dedicated solely to the teaching of Balinese sculpture. It was soon accredited into the public school system and it has grown steadily ever since. One faculty (SMKI 1) offers intense courses in wood sculpture, metal crafts, ceramic works and batik making; a second faculty (SMKI 2) offers professional training in Bali-style oil painting; and a third faculty (SMKI 3) trains youngsters in playing the various gamelan instruments and the subtlety and nuances of the classic dances of Bali.

Here, there are chances that you will be seeing happy teenagers sitting on the lawn, shaping their skills on oil painting and charcoal sketching. These kids would use their peers to pose for them or use one of the statues in the campus’ yard as their models. Normally the teachers will encourage visitors to have a closer look so that they can more appreciate these future artists as they are doing their early works. In the main room of the music school, visitors could watch a rehearsal of an orchestra comprised entirely of traditional Balinese instruments. The teacher/director will be sitting in front while enthusiastically waving his baton with all the energy. The dancing school here is like any other in any other country – a large empty room with a wooden floor and walls of mirrors bordered at mid-height by a balance bar. And when the class is in session it is filled with scores of Bali’s loveliest teenagers all moving gracefully to the direction of the instructor.

The students paint, dance and carve as if they love it; and it is very obvious that they do. The campus of this school is a fascinating place and, as a tourist, you are welcome to visit, observe and take a reasonable number of photos, as long as it’s done discreetly and there’s no disturbance to the students caused by your presence. If you feel like joining any of the classes offered in this school during your holiday, you can visit the Head Master’s office for details and applications.

I need to warn you, however, that nothing is going to be glamorously polished; you can leave the idea of being in a sophisticatedly designed performing stage with spotlights everywhere. Instead, you will find sweat dropping in many places, unsynchronized tunes can always be expected and unharmonious movements are a common sight. In other words, no colorful make-up or fancy dresses; you’ll see the real beauties. The rich devotions of these Balinese people towards their art, traditions that have been passed for countless generations, would do the magic and could give you an indescribable feeling of joy. The best front-row seat in a theatre can never beat backstage access of the training ground for Bali’s famous artists of tomorrow.

I went out at noon time from my Oberoi base, heading to the once sleepy fishing village of Kuta. Looking at the present hectic Kuta, I thought to myself, “Kuta is probably like nasi campur for the Balinese: it tastes darn good even though it looks bad.” I mean, many consider Kuta as the ‘absolute ugliness’ of the island due to its mix-bag tourism projects in combination with the ridiculous commercialism. Aside from that, Bali has many other much prettier beaches; yet, tourists and locals alike still flock around the long-stretched beach for it’s better than nothing. It’s most crowded in the late afternoon when the sun is close to going down. Old things still remain: people posing with the orange-colored sky, couples holding hands, some guys walking the dogs, kids playing on the sand, local ladies offering massage, braids, nail coloring along with countless guys trying to offer temporary tattoos. Yes, the area of Kuta Beach is still about the boldest board shorts and people really let their hair down.

However, stepping off the sand of Kuta Beach, you will now also notice that the current Kuta is packed with rising (apparently higher and higher) buildings made merrier with colorful glittering lights. These buildings are now the ones that turn the used-to-be sleepy hollow area into a spot that knows no days and/or nights with the almost non-stop activities and crowds. Up to the Legian area, more and more amusement centers like nightclubs, restaurants and shops are now making Kuta a place that doesn’t sleep. Not only that, the different loud music and theme building decorations of each of the venues are somewhat sending out messages to draw the passers by to get in. Yet, the ‘war’ doesn’t stop at that point for LCD screens have also taken place to give a more obvious picture on what’s really going on inside each of the venues.

Anyway, having my fill of Kuta’s frenetic energy, I shifted just up the coast to the less manic surrounds of Seminyak. The stylish Seminyak looked very apparent, especially because the sidewalks served as somewhat a catwalk with ‘street fashion show’ could always be expected during days and nights. It is not a surprise that Seminyak also serves as the home and playground for many of the most tasteful people and designers on the island. Owing to its high density of high-end shopping, combined with the clustering of many fine eating establishments, it has rapidly become one of the most well known tourist areas in Bali.

In addition to a few commercial strips with popular and lively restaurants, bars and good crafts/furniture/antique shops, there are a few notable establishments that have earned numerous titles as the best venue or party spot in various magazines. This area is also very popular with expatriates. Land and accommodation prices are amongst the highest in Bali with plenty of luxury spas and hotels abound. But don’t worry, even in the heart of Seminyak there are still a few budget accommodations.

The current frantic state of Kuta and the chic ambiance of Seminyak may come as a disappointment for those who knew these two areas in the good old day: Kuta as a fishing village and the rice fields of Seminyak. However, even now and then, when the sun slowly and gracefully sinks into the horizon of Kuta and Seminyak, every pair of eyes would look at one specific spot in the sky. It’s very comforting to see that finally we, despite of our differences, agree on one thing: sunset in Seminyak and Kuta never fails us.

The rituals of planting, maintaining, irrigating and harvesting rice certainly enrich the cultural life of Bali. At the beginning of planting time, after the water buffalos walk the rice fields several times, ceremonies are held to carry the young stems of rice that have been nurtured in a special nursery. On each section of the rice fields, the corner nearest to Mount Agung will receive the honor to be the first place to receive the young stems. The planning and responsibility of the irrigation and planting schedule are arranged through subak, a Balinese system that ties together rice cultivation with its water temple system. Throughout growing time and at harvesting, ceremonies are also held and offerings are presented to Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice. This is why in the middle of rice fields you often find little shrines with neatly decorated flowers, fruits and offerings.

The belief that the gods and goddesses appreciate the mundane pleasures as much as the mortals is an important aspect of religious life in Bali. Treating the cycling process of planting and harvesting rice with so much respect is also believed to please the gods; which in effect, would also please the humans with abundance of crops.

Aside from being told as a personified animal in the folktale, a number of Balinese people believe that geckos are the ‘Home Gods’. These Balinese deem that the geckos in their homes are the ones protecting them from all the bad influences from the outside. The other Balinese people who don’t see the geckos as gods still consider this particular animal as creatures that can bring goodness and luck. It is, therefore, many Balinese families lay offerings not only for their ancestors and gods, but also for the geckos occupying their homes. The offerings are meant for the geckos to not create disturbances and bring prosperity to the homes; probably, just like it is told in the folktale, also to make it easy for the geckos to go to sleep at night (thus, not making noises).

A Balinese woman who sells the traditional Babi Guling in Pengubengan area (Kerobokan) said that her family was ‘troubled’ after her husband killed a gecko in their house. The woman stated that exactly one day after the “killing” took place, her family began having problems (financial and even relationship problems). Their problems ended after the woman and her husband laid offerings for the gecko in their house.

Geckos certainly hold a special position within the Balinese tradition – despite its famed reputation as the mosquito extinguisher. Since there are many geckos to find in Bali, it’s a good chance for the non-believers to test whether or not this animal could really do the ‘curse’. However, I urge you to just keep your curiosity for yourself because, ‘god’ or not, geckos are living creatures too.

Here comes the grimy part, because I’m going to talk about excrements of all kinds. In Bali, excrements mean luck – very simple formula. Yet, this doesn’t mean that in order for you to be lucky, you should keep the thing in your home and make everyone pukes; very fortunately, it doesn’t work that way. Poo acts as a mediator of luck, giving signs that a person will get a pleasant surprise through dreams or unintentional ‘real contact’. Confused? Read on.

A Balinese woman who owns a little grocery shop near the Simpang Siur roundabout was surprised when she won a huge fridge from a lottery. She said that the night before she won the fridge, a gecko on the ceiling of her house was taking a dump and the thing fell right on top of her head. Another testimony came from a guy who runs a successful, small internet cafe somewhere behind the Carrefour Sunset Road. He claimed that his business started running well after he was having a nightmare of being drowned in a pond flooded with excrements – thank goodness it was only in his dream.

Now, I can’t challenge you to prove whether or not this ‘excrements mean luck’ is true. Likewise, based on this story, I’m not sure if it is wise to wish you luck.

The epigraph was carved from quite a huge, solid stone pillar. It acts as a monument commemorating the victory of the king from a Bali’s ancient kingdom Singadawala over the neighboring rival kingdom in Nusa Penida. The top of the epigraph is completely encircled by a frame elaborately carved in two languages: Sanskrit and Bali Kuna (ancient Balinese script). The script tells about the government of the victorious King Kesariwarmedewa and the triumph of his military in conquering the island of Nusa Penida.

Blanjong Epigraph sits in a tiny glass booth next to a very small temple in the Blanjong area of Sanur. Most recently renovated in July 1961, the glass booth that was built to contain this ancient stone allows for good 360 degree viewing and photography of the main pillar and the smaller relics reverently arranged on top of it. On special Hindu days of celebration the stone pillar is dressed in the traditional Balinese Hindu black and white checked cloth and draped with a religiously symbolic yellow cloth. The glass casing is a good idea; I definitely don’t want some rich art collector snapping the thing up and stick it in front of his gallery.

To get to Blanjong Epigraph, you can access the Danau Poso Street in Sanur – Blanjong area is across the Circle K on that street. If you want to ask people around, it’s better to ask where the Blanjong Temple is; not many know about the existence of this epigraph, even the locals. The epigraph is sited at the end of a small lane (only a 10-meter, dead-end pathway) next to the temple. There is no entrance fee or any donation needed to be made. I need to apologize, however, for giving you directions. Why? You might ask. This is because if you really make efforts to find this spot, you’d feel awarded only by reading the cover of Blanjong’s guest book that says, “Congratulations! You found it…lol”.

I’m talking about one of Bali’s best-kept secrets known as Taman Festival (literally means Festival Park). This place was initially constructed as an amusement park until, sadly, the money ran out and the construction was put to a stop. The locals said all the buildings were intact and it was as if the owners had packed up and left never to return. The aviaries and cages are empty along with the buildings, undergrowth and vines all over the structures. Although obviously Taman Festival is not in operation, you still need to pay ‘entrance ticket’ in order to get in to this dead park; I’m not sure where the money goes. However, the IDR 10,000 donation/person will surprisingly pay off; it is funny to learn that this park looks astonishing despite its ‘failure’.

Even though it’s dead, a life is still going on inside the park. Going further down the grounds, I came across this huge pit full of snapping handbags – dozens of them. Unknown by many, Taman Festival is the home of heaps of, just like the park, abandoned crocodiles. In their squalid condition, these crocodiles are very much dependent to the locals to throw in food for them. Yet, this will only happen whenever the locals find a road kill and rotten meat. Aside from that, many unwanted dogs also end up here. There used to be hundreds of crocodiles living in this park. With the current drastically decreasing number, there are suspicions that these crocodiles have been turning to each other for food. Freakily speaking, the pit would also be perfect as a spot to dispose of bodies too. Really creepy in a Jurassic Park way.

It is good to know that the government of Bali through its Natural Resource Conservation Agency (BKSDA) has finally noticed the existence of these crocodiles in Taman Festival. Regular feeding and water cleansing once in a week have currently been put on BKSDA’s schedule.

To go to Taman Festival and see the crocodiles, take on the Sanur Bypass leading north. On the traffic lights after McDonald’s Sanur, take a right turn to Padang Galak Road. The park will be on your left side at the end of the road – beachside.

In other words, being ‘inactive’ has its own price. Ignoring an invitation (wedding as an instance) will result in a warning. If three invitations are ignored, then the village may take actions. Since land is usually owned by the community, the village may revoke one’s privilege to cultivate the land. This would mean that the inactive person must leave the village and be a total outcast.

Aside from that, in Balinese society, descent, status and inheritance are traced through the male line. While a high-caste Balinese man could marry anyone he pleases (even if she is not from Bali), a woman may only marry someone of at least the same rank or risk herself of becoming a social outcast. A Balinese woman ‘marries out’, leaving her home to become the member of her husband’s community.

Although modernity has entered the island, this so-called ancient social system is still widely practiced.

Tukad Bangkung area now has one of the smoothest asphalted roads in Bali. Little shrines, constantly visited by local residents with their offerings, have also been erected in several spots down the hill, along the banks of the river to appease the ‘hungry’ female pig. Not only that, a bridge to cross the hill and connect Badung with Bangli (Kintamani area) has also been spanning for almost a year now.

Known as the Tukad Bangkung Bridge, the bridge spans as long as 360m with the highest pillar at 71m plus 41m foundation dug down into the earth. These numbers make Tukad Bangkung as the currently longest bridge in Bali and the highest one in Asia for now. Built in balanced cantilever technology, the bridge is expected to last 100 years. To minimize impact to magnificent natural beauty in the area, the bridge was not built with canopy. The construction is predicted to stand earthquake up to 7 on the Richter scale.

A warung selling meatballs and local snacks stands at one end of the bridge for visitors to enjoy the view. If you wish to hear fascinating stories about the area, then you can always have a chat with the lady from the warung. To visit the bridge, head to Plaga Village, Petang District in Badung Regency.

One of these most apparent rituals is the Purnama (full moon). Considered as an auspicious day by the Balinese people, many important Hindu ceremonies and rituals fall upon or are held at this time. People would start coming to the temples in the morning. At night, floods of pilgrimages would occupy not only the main worshipping areas, but also the surroundings. Road closures and traffic jams around temple areas are therefore a common sight during the full moon.

On this day extra offerings are made around the family compound, as well as some offerings placed on the ground at the entrance to the house compound. The towering offerings (also known as sesajen) are also often taken to the village temple. Depending on the time of year, many temples then hold various forms of entertainment for the village (dancing, wayang puppet performances) to coincide with the special prayers for Purnama.

Purnama is also considered a good day for planting, especially for plants that bear fruits. So very often people will delay planting until the day of the full moon, when they are more assured of successful harvest. Some Balinese believe that bathing in water perfumed by the fragrant petals of the frangipani flower under the light of the full moon will wash away the sins, while ensuring attractive youth.

However, the significance of Purnama has changed over recent times – fortunately not into something negative. As tourism brought significant influences, tons of activities to entertain the tourists are also held during the full moon. Nowadays, aside from the ceremonies and other religious rituals, parties and festivals are also thrown during the full moon. The purpose of these events is not only to introduce the cultural asset and arts but also to attract tourists.

Full moon festivities have become a monthly event at many venues on the island. These celebrations would now involve the exhibitions of Balinese culinary, parades, gamelan and dances as well as art and culture. Not only that, the shows also extend to activities such as full moon spa, yoga and full moon observations – watching the natural allurement of full moon by telescope while drinking tea or wine. In addition, some venues will also take the participants to see ancient films of Bali.

Ubud Full Moon Festival is one example where tourists could enjoy the festivity of this auspicious day. Such monthly event is expected to become one of the benefits to tourism of Bali, as it is impossible to experience Bali to the fullest in only one visit. So, frequent tourists to Bali will not be bored at all.

Anyway, while the Balinese people are doing their religious rituals in the temples during this day, the tourists are welcomed to join as long as they are properly dressed. However, those with an opposite interest could always head somewhere else a lot more worldly. Yes, Bali’s full moon parties may also be the reason why the island has become even more popular now. Ranks of international DJs along with their international markets would flock at the venues offering full moon parties. With special drinks sold in special prices along with tons of cultural and non-cultural entertainments offered, tourists certainly have a good reason to party the full moon away.

The next full moon will fall on November the 2nd. If you happen to be still in Bali during that day, don’t miss out the festivities. Have your eyes and ears all opened!